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Attabad Lake in Upper Hunza in winter, deep turquoise water between snow-covered mountain walls.

Where to go in Pakistan

Each of these is a proper guide rather than four hundred words of keywords: how to get there, which months work, where to stay at each level, what to do with one day or five — and what is genuinely unpleasant about the place, because you will find that out anyway.

Gilgit-Baltistan

The treeless Deosai plateau under an enormous evening sky, a stream curling through wildflower grassland.

Deosai

The second-highest plateau on earth, in flower for eight weeks a year

1 nights minimum

The Raikot face of Nanga Parbat filling the sky above the meadow, a wooden hut small on the grass below.

Fairy Meadows

A meadow at 3,300 metres with Nanga Parbat filling the sky

2 nights minimum

A man in a Hunza cap walking up a cobbled lane in old Karimabad towards Baltit Fort, Ultar Sar rising behind.

Hunza

Terraced valleys under 7,000-metre peaks, and the friendliest place in Pakistan

3 nights minimum

The Karakoram Highway climbing steeply towards the Khunjerab saddle between bare slopes streaked with old snow.

Khunjerab Pass

The highest paved border crossing in the world, at 4,693 metres

1 nights minimum

The granite face of Amin Brakk rising above the green meadow of Mingulu Broq in Nangma Valley, a single tent tiny below it.

Nangma Valley

Granite walls rising straight off a green meadow — the Yosemite of Pakistan

2 nights minimum

A wall of Karakoram rock and snow towering over low Balti houses and poplars on the floor of the Skardu valley at dusk, one window lit.

Skardu

Cold desert, turquoise lakes, and the gateway to the Baltoro

3 nights minimum

Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

Kalash timber and stone houses stacked up a steep valley side in Bumburet, each flat roof the terrace of the house above.

Chitral & the Kalash valleys

Three valleys holding an ancient culture that is not like anywhere else

3 nights minimum

Lake Saif-ul-Malook at dawn, still water reflecting Malika Parbat with a wooden boat drawn up on the shingle.

Naran & Kaghan

Alpine lakes and the Babusar Pass, open for four months a year

1 nights minimum

A steep forested valley side in upper Swat, deodar climbing from a fast river to snow-streaked rock above.

Swat & Kalam

Green river valleys, Gandhara ruins, and the easiest north to reach

2 nights minimum

Punjab

A minaret of the Badshahi Mosque rising against a deepening sky in warm late-afternoon light.

Lahore

Mughal architecture, Sufi music and the best food in the country

2 nights minimum

The tapering brick and blue-tiled dome of the shrine of Shah Rukn-e-Alam in Multan against a warm evening sky.

Multan

The city of saints — blue tilework, Sufi shrines and mango orchards

1 nights minimum

Sindh

A wooden fishing boat with a tall mast on the Sindhi coast at dusk, the Karachi shoreline behind under a warm hazy sky.

Karachi & Sindh

The Arabian Sea, Sufi shrines, and Mohenjo-daro

2 nights minimum

Islamabad

Faisal Mosque in Islamabad seen from below, its folded white roof and minaret against the wooded Margalla Hills.

Islamabad

The quiet, green capital — and where almost every trip begins

1 nights minimum

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