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The upper Swat valley in the morning, the river running over pale boulders below forested slopes and wooden houses.

Swat & Kalam

Green river valleys, Gandhara ruins, and the easiest north to reach

Altitude

2,000 m

Worth going

Apr–Oct

How long to stay

2–4 nights

Getting a signal

4G on the main operators

Swat is greener and softer than the Karakoram, and much quicker to reach — five hours from Islamabad on a motorway rather than fourteen on a mountain road. Mingora holds Gandhara Buddhist archaeology, Kalam and Ushu sit under pine forest, and Malam Jabba is the country’s functioning ski resort.

  • The Gandhara Buddhist sites around Mingora and Butkara
  • Kalam, Ushu forest and the Mahodand lake road
  • Malam Jabba for skiing between December and February
  • Trout in the Swat river, cooked by the bank

The honest downsides

  • Very busy with domestic tourists in July and August, and the road to Kalam jams.
  • The upper Kalam road is rough and slow after rain.
  • It is not the high Karakoram. Come for green, not for glaciers.
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