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The Hunza valley from Duikar at sunrise in autumn, the lit snow wall of the Karakoram above the golden valley.

Hunza

Terraced valleys under 7,000-metre peaks, and the friendliest place in Pakistan

Altitude

2,438 m

Worth going

All year

How long to stay

3–6 nights

Getting a signal

4G on the main operators

Hunza is the reason most people come north. A high, dry valley of apricot terraces and stone villages, walled in by Rakaposhi and Ultar Sar, with a literacy rate that embarrasses the rest of the country and a welcome that catches most visitors off guard. Karimabad is the base; Gulmit and Passu, further up, are quieter and arguably better.

  • Baltit and Altit forts, both properly restored and worth the guide
  • Sunrise on Rakaposhi from Duikar, above Karimabad
  • The Passu Cones and the Hussaini suspension bridge
  • Attabad Lake, an accident of a landslide that became the valley’s postcard
  • Apricot blossom in April, and the whole valley turning gold in late October

The honest downsides

  • The Karakoram Highway takes 14 hours from Islamabad and landslides can add a day without warning.
  • Winter nights are genuinely cold and many guesthouses heat one room, not the building.
  • Karimabad in July and August is busy with domestic tourism and prices rise accordingly.
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